In the charming Tuscan countryside, in the province of Siena, stands the imposing Abbey of San Galgano, a place that fascinates with its mystical beauty and legends that surround it. Among the many elements that attract attention is the sword in the stone. We explore where the homeless church is located, the history and secrets of the abbey, trying to unravel its mystery.
We are in Chiusdino, a medieval Tuscan village nestled in the Val di Merse among the rolling Metalliferous Hills. It is there that stands the precious example of Gothic Cistercian architecture, the Abbey of San Galgano, together with the Hermitage of Montesiepi.
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San Galgano, the history
The great San Galgano Circestense Abbey is an extremely suggestive complex that stands near the Rotonda di Montesiepi, a church built near the place where Galgano Guidotti spent his last months of life.
Born in the mid-thirteenth century, the nobleman was attracted by a dissipated life, until two visions of Saint Michael the Archangel changed the course of his existence. Galgano was persuaded that he had been called to become a Knight of God and undertook a journey that would forever mark his life.
During this journey, Galgano entrusted himself to God and to the guide of his steed, which took him up to the hill of Montesiepi. Here, unexpectedly, his horse knelt respectfully before San Michele and Galgano was so impressed that he abandoned his old life. In a symbolic gesture, he planted his sword in the stone as an act of renunciation of earthly wealth and violence, turning it into a cross.
The news of this event spread rapidly, arousing wonder and admiration. A small group of faithful formed around him, giving rise to what would become a monastic community that would follow his example.
Galgano spent the last years of his life as a hermit, in a modest hut near the rock where he had planted his sword. Four years after his death, he was canonized by Pope Lucius III and the construction of the chapel that housed the sword in the stone began.
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The Abbey of San Galgano, an oasis of spirituality and devotion
The Abbey of San Galgano was built in the first decades of the thirteenth century and even today, despite the practice of the Commenda before and the deconsecration after they tried to undermine its splendor, is a valuable example of Gothic Cistercian architecture.
This structure consists of a basilica with three naves with ogival arches and cross vaults, but is missing both the roof and the flooring.
Why the Abbey of San Galgano and homeless? Until some time ago it was believed that it was sold in the sixteenth century to pay off the debts of the monks, but recently it is assumed that the lack of a roof is linked to the collapse of the roof in the eighteenth century following a lightning strike that hit the bell tower.
The isolated location of the complex, the Cistercian architecture, the sign of monastic life and the lack of a roof create an atmosphere of sacredness and inner peace.
The charm of the Montesiepi Chapel
One of the most precious treasures not far from the Abbey of San Galgano is the Chapel of Montesiepi, a small circular chapel in Romanesque-Sienese style with a dome with concentric circles characterized by white bands (travertine) and red (brick) where the sword is in the stone.
The main chapel is leaning against a chapel built later and known for the decorative frescoes born from the genius of Ambrogio Lorenzetti. For this reason, the chapel is called by Lorenzetti. It recalls a mystical and involving atmosphere.
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The reference to the legend of the sword in the stone
The legend of the sword in the rock of San Galgano brings to mind the saga of King Arthur and the knights of the Round Table and Excalibur. The charm of this place has captured the imagination of many, turning the complex into a symbol of spirituality and rebirth.
The sword in the rock of San Galgano has aroused several symbolic interpretations over the centuries. For some, it represents the victory of good over evil while others consider it a symbol of strength and courage in the moment of transformation. Some skeptics argue that the sword is simply a medieval artifact or a simple tourist attraction.
Hypothesis aside, the attraction that arouses the sword in the stone and its connection with history and spirituality continue to fascinate and enchant anyone who approaches it. Unfortunately, there were those who, driven by the conviction of being the personification of King Arthur, tried to pull out the sword, ending up breaking it near the handle. Since then, the sword has been kept in a transparent case.
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Chiusdino, as the last stage of the itinerary
The exploratory journey around the history and spirituality of San Galgano can continue with the evocative discovery of Chiusdino, the medieval village that gave birth to the saint and houses some places of great historical and spiritual interest.
The birthplace of Galgano, now transformed into a chapel, houses the mysterious and fascinating Sasso Santo. According to legend, this stone bears the marks of the moment when the horse knelt before the Archangel Michael.
Nearby stands the Church of San Michele Arcangelo, a simple structure that houses a skull with locks of hair, the only relic attributed to San Galgano.
In Siena, however, there are other places that have had a significant connection with San Galgano: the Palazzo di San Galgano that hosted the monks after the abandonment of the abbey; the Church of Santuccio with frescoes that narrate the life of the Saint; The National Art Gallery and the Biccherne Museum that contain paintings depicting San Galgano.
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San Galgano: how to get there?
If you are travelling from Florence, you can take the Firenze-Siena motorway junction and exit at the Colle Val d’Elsa Sud junction. From there, take the provincial road SP541 to Montarrenti and continue on SP73bis to the abbey.
To reach the Abbey of San Galgano, located from Siena twenty kilometers away, just follow the signs for Costalpino, Ampugnano and Rosia. Once in Rosia, you have to take the SP73bis to your destination.
Those who are in Pisa or Livorno must take the A12 motorway to the barrier of Rosignano Marittimo, continue on the SS1 Aurelia and take the regional road SR439 after Follonica to Massa Marittima. From there they must continue along the SP441.
Those who travel by public transport can take local transport from Siena. For example, the 116 bus takes you to Case Piane and there you can proceed on foot or by taxi.
How much does it cost to visit the Abbey of San Galgano?
Today the Abbey of San Galgano can be visited every day and without reservation buying the ticket on the spot at a cost of five euros for adults, four euros for minors, people over the age of 65 and university students and 15 euros per family of parents and two children.
Admission to the Abbey without roof is free for all residents of the Municipality of Chiusdino and children up to six years of age.
The opening times change according to the period: from 09:00 to 18:00 from November to May; from 09:00 to 20:00 from June to August; from 09:00 to 19:00 in September and October. It is also open at Christmas from 9.00 to 12.30 and from 14.30 to 18.00.
Copertina: toscana.info
