Every September 7th, paper lanterns, processions, and ancient popular memories return to light the streets of Florence. Born from the nocturnal journey of farmers, merchants, and pilgrims to the Santissima Annunziata, Rificolona has become one of the city’s most beloved festivals, still capable of uniting generations, neighborhoods, and Florentine identity. There are traditions that survive because they are told.
Every September 7th Florence lights up with small colored paper lanterns. They are mostly carried by children, often hanging from the traditional cane. They have different shapes, bright colors, and that wonderful imperfection of hand-built objects. Behind those seemingly simple lights, however, lies a story that spans centuries of Florentine life. A story in which popular religiosity, the peasant world, markets, pilgrimages, urban irony and collective memory meet. La Rificolona was not born as a show. It comes from the street. And perhaps that’s precisely why she continues to be so deeply Florentine. The night of September 7th To understand its origins, we must go back in time and imagine a Florence very different from the contemporary one. L’8 September Christian tradition celebrates the Nativity of the Virgin Mary.
In Florence one of the main places of Marian devotion was, and still is today, the Basilica of the Santissima Annunziata. On the occasion of the anniversary, farmers, merchants and pilgrims from the countryside reached the city. Many arrived the previous evening. It was September 7th. The journey could be long and part of the journey took place when the sun had already set. There was naturally no street lighting. To orient oneself along the paths and roads of the countryside it was necessary to carry a light with you. And here appear the ancestors of the riccicolone. Simple lanterns, made of poor materials and carried on top of sticks or reeds. Those lights weren’t created for a party. They were used to get to Florence. And this is perhaps the most fascinating detail of the entire tradition. An object born out of necessity would become, centuries later, the symbol of a city in celebration.
Pilgrims, farmers and merchants
Those arriving from the countryside did not reach Florence only to participate in religious celebrations.
The anniversary also represented an important commercial occasion. In the Santissima Annunziata area, a fair was held that attracted sellers and buyers. The peasants brought the products of their own lands. The exact origin of the term is linked to popular memory and presents interpretations handed down over time. One of the most common explanations traces the name back to the Fierucola or the fair that took place on the occasion of the anniversary. The women from the countryside, with their clothes considered flashy by the citizens and their rural appearance, were allegedly teased by young Florentines with names linked to the fair itself. From these expressions the term Rificolona would progressively arise.
It is difficult to completely separate history, oral tradition and popular irony. But deep down it would almost be wrong to do so. Florence has always possessed a linguistic culture characterized by jokes, provocation, and a certain irreverence. Even a religious festival could therefore turn into an occasion for jokes. And it is precisely this encounter between devotion and irony that makes Rificolona so particular. And as the rifficolones cross the streets of the city, for a few hours past and present they walk together.
The light that once served the peasants to find their way to Florence today serves us to find something equally important. The memory of who we are.
