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Sailing through the Pontine Islands: slow tourism in Ponza and Palmarola

As many other travellers before me, at one point of this pandemic I have had to realise that I would have to adapt my plans to this new way of life. I looked myself in the mirror and I asked myself: how much do I really know my country? The answer was very vague. And as I pondered on what to do to change the answer, it hit me: sailing through the Pontine Islands.

The Pontine Islands: a bit of history

Sailing through the Pontine Islands -italiantraditions
Source: Latina Mi Piace

Before telling you all about my short but intense trip to the Pontine Islands by sailboat, let us check out the history of this ancient archipelago in the Tyrrhenian Sea. The archipelago of the Pontine Islands, or Ponziane Islands, consists of six isles, divided into two subgroups. The islands of the north-west group, to which belong Ponza, Palmarola, Zannone and Gavi, and the islands of the south-east group which includes Ventotene and Santo Stefano. They are all islands of volcanic origin, thus presenting very high jagged cliffs, and with clear and deep seabeds.

Sailing through the Pontine Islands: a slow tourism experience

Thus, I decide to set off for the Pontine Islands in a slightly unconventional way: by sailboat. It should be said that Ponza can be reached way more easily and quickly through a ferry ride, leaving from Anzio. The ferry takes about an hour, unlike the sailboat which can take from 4 to 6 hours. The sailboat offers a true slow tourism experience which I have wanted to try first-hand letting myself be lulled by the sea.

Waking up in Palmarola: living in a fairytale

We leave on Friday afternoon for our trip to the Pontine by sailboat, from Nettuno’s port, one of the most famous harbours of the coast, enjoying one of the most beautiful sunsets during navigation. As always with a glass of wine in one hand and a nice cool dinner in front of us, we reach the destination at about 22.00. 

After sleeping peacefully, I open my eyes at dawn. I go outside and what I see looks like I am in a fairytale. At my feet crystal blue water, cool, calm. In front of me, the sun that rises from behind the high cliffs in front of me and gives them that orange-y hue. All around me, silence interrupted every once in a while by other people just waking up on other boats. Paradise. So close to home.

Navigation toward Ponza and sunset at Cala Feola

After exploring the beautiful natural caves of Palmarola, a completely desert island where you can taste the true essence of sea nature, we move on to Ponza, more specifically to Cala Feola. A bay famous for its natural pools and for hosting the only sand beach on the island. In 2017, furthermore, Skyscanner mentioned it as one of the three most beautiful beaches in Italy. We then decide to enjoy a beautiful sunset, this time from the land side. Sat on the rocks of Cala Feola, we watch the sun disappear behind Palmarola, colouring the sky with red and the sea with a deep enveloping blue.

calafeola-italiantraditions
Source: PonzaLeForna

Coming back home aware that it is always worth exploring

Last day of relax and then back to normal life. We wake up in the crystal-clear blue waters of Ponza and in the afternoon we get ready to return to Nettuno’s port. The wind is up so that we use the sails, and we get back home quicker than in the first leg. As we move, under the sun, in the middle of the sea that does not look the usual one, I think of how beautiful and essential contact with nature is. I think of all the wonderful destinations that I have so close to me, which I do not know about, and that are absolutely worth discovering and exploring.

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