The mixed boiled is not only a winter dish of Italian tradition: it is the gateway to authentic cuisine of a part of the country, linked to the rural heritage and the art of recovery. The history and recipes of the mixed boiled tell the identity of the regions in which it was born and evolved.
Typical of the northern regions, the mixed boiled is a dish rich in aromas, textures and flavors that brings with it the warmth of winter and the essence of the peasant tradition of the territories of origin, As the Langhe and surroundings where the Brotherhood of Boiled and Madernassa Pear was established with the aim of keeping alive the traditional recipe.
This preparation, while telling a story of simplicity, has left behind the reputation of unpalatable dish and gradually turned into a refined course without losing its authenticity.
Today, the mixed boiled is still the perfect choice for the festive tables of northern Italy (but also of the South) and to celebrate the genuine flavors of meat.
The history of mixed boiled
The tradition of mixed boiled has deep roots in the peasant culture, where nothing (not even meat) was wasted: every cut, even the poorest, found a place in the kitchen. This dish was prepared by the peasant families on special occasions or during the winter, when the heat of the broth was a comfort against the cold.
The mixed boiled was established as a royal dish during the Savoy dynasty thanks to the combination with rich sauces. Several historical documents, in fact, testify that the “Gran Bollito alla Piemontese” was served according to a precise ritual and together with a wide variety of meat cuts and accompaniments.
In Veneto, it developed as a dish linked to the recovery of less valuable meats, enhanced by pearà sauce, symbol of the tradition of Verona.
The popularity of mixed boiled spread then in other regions, adapting to local tastes and raw materials, but Piedmont was and always remained its starting point.
The Mixed Stew with Piemontese
In Piedmont, the mixed boiled is considered a real institution. The “Grand Bollito Misto alla Piemontese” involves a selection of at least seven main cuts of beef (called nobili) and seven other secondary cuts (called mennicoli) ranging from veal to chicken to pig.
The main cuts include rump, leg, belly, breech, priest’s hat, pointed with bow and rolled, while the other cuts include head, tongue, paw, tail, hen, cotechino and loin.
According to the historical recipe, it begins with the preparation of the broth or better of the meat cooking broths: it is brought to boiling abundant cold water with aromas and smells, chosen according to the type of meat. In this regard, interviewed by Vanity Fair, the chef Giancarlo Morelli suggests to cook beef in a broth scented with laurel, Juniper berries, three grains of black pepper and a vegetable assortment in which celery can predominate over onion and carrot and complete with a small piece of crunchy cabbage.
For the tongue and head, instead, recommend a broth with a more spicy character and enriched with white vinegar, white wine, star anise, cinnamon and classic vegetables. The chicken, requiring about an hour of cooking compared to two hours of beef and ninety minutes of tongue and head, lends itself better to a light broth rich in vegetables.
Once ready, the meats must rest for about twenty minutes in the broth and then can be served hot on a plate, accompanied by typical sauces and sometimes with side dishes such as potatoes or boiled carrots, zucchini with butter or onion salad.
The sauces served with the boiled
The accompanying sauces are as important as the meats, since they have the task of enhancing the flavours of the boiled meat by means of a fresh and lively contrast.
Among the almost essential accompaniments there are the bagnet verd (sauce made from parsley, anchovies, garlic and stale bread) and/ or the bagnet (sauce with tomato and chili).
In fact, following the “rule of seven” tradition, it is possible to serve the boiled with seven sauces: in addition to bagnet verd in rich or rustic version and bagnet ross, they perfectly match the cren sauce, the salsa cugnà, the honey sauce and the mustard. There are no areas where it is also served with pearà and peverada sauce.
The tradition of mixed boiled in Veneto
The mixed boiled is a tradition rooted also in Veneto, although it presents itself in a slightly different way than Piedmont, thanks to the traditions of the territory and the local ingredients that vary from city to city.
In Venice, the dish is distinguished by special condiments such as Venetian mustard (sweet and spicy mix of quinces and apples) and Cren sauce (seasoning based on horseradish and vinegar). In Padua, on the other hand, the choice of meat is oriented towards birds, such as the Padova chicken, symbol of the agricultural tradition of the plain; in Verona the dish is accompanied by the pearà sauce, a cream prepared with stale bread, meat broth, ox marrow and black pepper.
The boiled in a modern version
Many chefs reinterpret the mixed stew with variations of the original recipe, perhaps adding spices like cardamom or ginger to the broth to give it an exotic touch or proposing bold accompaniments such as horseradish sauce.
Some people choose to cook the meats in a single broth, first cooking the strongest cuts (e.g. brisket, scaramella and priest’s hat) and adding those that require less cooking (the tongue half-cooked and the chicken and head towards the end). The cotechino is cooked separately and added at the end.
There is no lack of creative ideas, such as the boiled served in small portions accompanied by a reduction of Barolo wine or the light version prepared with lean cuts and steamed vegetables.
There are also modern variants made with innovative techniques, such as that of chef Massimo Bottura. The approach in question involves the use of vacuum cooking at low temperature in the Roner because it can preserve the juiciness of the meat and enhance its natural flavors.
Preparing the mixed boiled takes time, care and passion, but the result is a warming experience. Whether served with Piedmontese sauces, with the Venetian pearà or with your favorite accompaniments, this dish remains a tribute to the peasant tradition and gastronomic excellence of our country.
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