Lake Iseo is one of the most fascinating natural places in Lombardy: an extensive blue water mirror in which are reflected imposing mountains and an enchanted island.
Ideal scenario of a different itinerary, discovering the many villages that dot its banks.
The lake
Nestled between the Lombardy Pre-Alps and the Bergamo plain, Lake Iseo is a natural wonder that extends over 61 km 2.
It is fed by the river Oglio, which descends from the Valle Camonica, enters into the lake between Lovere and Pisogne to the north, and exits to the south-west, near Sarnico. In the middle of the lake stands Montisola, the largest lake island in Italy, accompanied to the north and south by the small islets of San Paolo and Loreto.
Both sides of the lake offer fascinating landscapes and extraordinary viewpoints: the bank of Bergamo, to the west, with steep cliffs that plunge into the lake, and the Brescia, to the east, more gentle and rich in coves.
The presence of lush olive groves, vineyards and orchards indicates that we are in an environment with a climate extraordinarily indulgent. Wild flora and fauna are equally rich: chestnut and beech forests are home to deer, wild boar and many species of migratory birds.
The villages of the lake
Montisola is a real mountain that emerges from the waters, the green heart of Lake Iseo.
It is surrounded by crystal clear waters and hosts villages where time seems to have stopped, such as Peschiera Maraglio and Carzano. Tourism has led to the birth of numerous restaurants that offer, in combination with the landscape, excellent gastronomic experiences, with local specialties such as baked tench and white coregone.
Along the shores of the lake you will find, then, places of great charm such as Iseo and Pisogne.
The coastal road that connects them crosses Sulzano, from where a ferry service connects the mainland to the island of Montisola. Continuing, you will find Sale Marasino, with the majestic Church of San Zenone, and Marone, famous for olive growing that has earned it the title of “city of oil”.
Iseo is a medieval village that has been able to enhance its artistic and cultural heritage thanks to the resources brought by tourism. Pisogne, located in the northern part of the lake, offers a pretty medieval center dominated by the Bishop’s Tower. The old market square is known to have been the scene of a tragic episode in 1518, when eight women accused of witchcraft were burned alive here.
The picturesque island of San Paolo, once home to a Cluniac and then Franciscan convent, became private property in the 19th century. The island of Loreto is also private and hosts a magnificent residence from the early twentieth century surrounded by a secular park.
The artistic and architectural treasures of the lake: excursion to Lovere
Lovere, located on the north-western shore of Lake Iseo, preserves in its historic center Renaissance and Baroque buildings and valuable works of art. It was included in the club of “Most beautiful villages in Italy” in 2003 thanks to its rich historical, artistic and cultural heritage.
The lakefront of Lovere offers the possibility to walk in a charming place: along the route there are many points where you can sit and admire the panorama, Particularly suggestive at dawn and sunset when the waters are lit up with colors and the silhouettes of the mountains stand out clearly against one of the most romantic landscapes in Italy.
In Piazza Tredici Martiri there is the boat dock and the IAT Tourist Office, where you can request maps and information on the city.
The Tadini Academy is another point of interest that attracts many visitors, one of the oldest museums in Lombardy. Founded in 1829, it houses a rich collection of paintings, sculptures and art objects from the Lombard and Venetian school from the fourteenth to the eighteenth century, as well as various Italian and European porcelain. Also present the works of Antonio Canova and Francesco Hayez.
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Clusone and the Macabre Dance
Situated on a sunny plateau, Clusone is the ideal place to enjoy the magnificence of the forests of the Orobie or to explore the Presolana massif and the numerous ski areas in the valley.
The Italian Touring Club has awarded it the Orange Flag, a recognition of tourism-environmental quality conferred to small municipalities in the Italian hinterland that stand out for excellence and quality in hospitality.
The medieval village has a beating heart represented by the Fanzago Planetary Clock, a masterpiece of engineering from the fifteenth century that still works perfectly today, indicating not only the time but also lunar phases and astral positions.
The historic center of Clusone is instead a maze of cobbled alleys and characteristic squares, dominated by the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta with its 65-meter high gothic bell tower (spectacular view on the valley below).
Clusone is famous for its Danza Macabra, a cycle of 15th century frescoes considered the most complete in Europe.
The fresco, dated 1485, is a meditation on themes dear to medieval and renaissance art: the inevitability of death, in front of which we are all equal. Part of the work represents, in fact, death dancing with people from different social backgrounds.
The work is characterized by a remarkable realism and an extraordinary attention to detail. Skeletons are represented with anatomical precision, while human figures are depicted with expressions of fear, resignation or indifference. The description of death as an inevitable leveler is a reminder to the vanity of earthly ambitions and an invitation to spiritual reflection.
Once a year, Clusone becomes the centre of the world jazz scene with its Jazz Festival, which attracts musicians from all over Europe and beyond.
The cuisine of Lake Iseo between land and water
Typical dishes of this area include the lake fish, such as agone and tinca, prepared with cooking methods capable of enhancing its delicate and fresh taste. The dried and marinated agone, known as carpione fish, is a delicacy that recalls centuries of gastronomic history.
The area is also renowned for its cheeses and salami, produced in the mountain huts and farms of the surrounding mountains: Branzi cheese and salame bergamasco are often offered as accompaniments to local wines such as Franciacorta, Famous for its refined bubbles and available in three variations: Franciacorta, Franciacorta Satèn and Franciacorta Rosé.
Marone, a small village on the eastern shore of the lake, is known for its extra virgin olive oil DOP Sebino. Beekeeping produces various types of honey, while berry jams enrich local breakfasts.
Another excellent regional product is the Sebino saffron, which gives colour and personality to the dishes.
Copertina: Unsplash