In the heart of Palermo, among the narrow streets of the historic center, stands an architectural jewel that enchants tourists with its beauty and the millennial history that embodies: the Church of the Martorana.
Unique architecture and style of the Church
What makes the Church of the Martorana so fascinating is its eclectic mix of architectural styles, evidence of the rich cultural history of Sicily. The original building reflects the Byzantine style, with the characteristic Greek cross plan and the semicircular apse typical of the churches of the Christian East. However, what makes Martorana unique is the Arab influence that permeates its architecture, witness to the period of Islamic domination that left an indelible mark on the Sicilian art and culture of the period.
Access to the sacred building, the object of numerous restorations over the centuries, is through an entrance located on the ground floor of the bell tower. The latter, dating back to the twelfth century, is a square-plan structure characterized by arches opened by angular columns and three levels of large mullioned windows.
The Church of the Martorana has a Greek cross plan, extended with the narthex and the atrium. An axial portal, still present, opens onto the atrium and the narthex, following the typical layout of the early Christian churches. Besides the narthex, the building is arranged and decorated as a Byzantine church with four columns, with pointed arches and dome plumes influenced by Islamic taste. In 1193, the surrounding houses were transformed into a monastery for women, and the church was later incorporated into it.
The nartèce (or ardica) is a characteristic of the Byzantine and early Christian basilicas of the early centuries of Christianity. It is a space that is located between the naves and the main facade of the church, functioning as a short atrium, with the same width of the church itself.
Entering inside the Church of the Martorana can only arouse wonder to tourists: marble decorations, frescoes and vaults in golden mosaics and a blue so intense to leave speechless visitors. An extraordinary mix of colors, techniques, styles and different eras.
Once entered the first body of the building, which was rebuilt in the eighteenth century with frescoed vaults by Olivio Sozzi, Antonio Grano and Guglielmo Borremans, we come across two mosaic decorations on the front of the original body.
One of them depicts Roger II dressed as a Byzantine emperor and crowned king by the hand of Jesus Christ. Above Roger, the inscription in Greek characters reads “rogerios rex”, using the Latin term but written in Greek. The other mosaic decoration represents the act of dedicating the church to the Virgin by the Eastern admiral George of Antioch. In this representation, George of Antioch is depicted in a humble act of prostration before Our Lady.
On the western wall of the same room is walled a plaque in honor of Giorgio Castriota Scanderbeg, national hero of the Albanians, placed in 1968 to commemorate his fifth centenary since his death. The plaque shows the engraving of the Constantinopolitan biceps eagle, symbol of Albania. On the sides, Byzantine icons commissioned by the Arbëreshe community adorn the church.
After this environment, you enter the original medieval part of the church.
The mosaics of the Church of the Martorana, made around 1150, revolve around Christ Pantocrator in the center of the dome. Christ, symbolizing omnipotence, is depicted on the throne blessing, surrounded by adoring angels. In the drums are present the Prophets, in the niches the Four Evangelists. The scenes and figures, as they approach the ground, lose importance, symbolizing the passage from the divine to the ground.
On the vault of the triumphal arch is the Annunciation, in the side apses you can admire San Gioacchino and Sant’Anna, while in the central apse, destroyed to build the choir of nuns, was originally the image of the Virgin. The Apostles are present on the vaults, while towards the entrance the Nativity of Jesus and the Transit of the Virgin stand out.
This magnificent cycle of Byzantine mosaics is the oldest in Sicily, of great historical importance and high artistic value.
The church is equipped with an ancient iconostasis in mixed marble, originally without icons. The Albanian faithful of the time then provided for the realization of the mosaics of the Madonna, Christ and the icons of the Virgin Mary and Saint Nicholas of Mira, the latter placed in front of the iconostasis.
The iconostasis is a dividing structure adorned with sacred images, interposed between the presbytery and the naves in some ancient Christian basilicas, and now in churches of Greek or Byzantine rite.
Particularly expressive for the faithful arbëreshë is an important icon dating back to the fifteenth century depicting Saint Nicholas enthroned, now placed in the diaconate, a room, where the sacred vestments, missals, etc., used for the sacred liturgy are kept. This icon comes from the church of San Nicolò dei Greci, destroyed along with the adjoining Seminary Italo – Albanian of Palermo during the aerial bombing of 1943. The apse, demolished at the end of the seventeenth century, has been replaced by the present Baroque chapel with marble inlays, designed by Paolo Amato.
In the church there are also contemporary icons, some of which made by the iconographer Italo – Albanian Zef Giuseppe Barone from Piana degli Albanesi (including a Byzantine cross of the death and resurrection of Christ, painted on both sides)and other works by the Albanian iconographer and mosaicist Josif Droboniku (such as those depicting the twelve despotic feasts and the great crucifixion on the Byzantine altar). These works constitute an important artistic heritage of the parish.
Foto : Sicilia Info
Brief history of the Martorana Church
The Martorana Church, also known as Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, is located in the heart of the old district of Kalsa. The history of the religious building has its roots in the twelfth century, when the noble admiral George of Antioch decided to build this magnificent church as a tribute to Our Lady, after making a vow to build a place of worship in the event that he had passed a dangerous journey at sea. The sacred building, founded in 1143, was later enlarged and enriched by the successive Norman and Swabian rulers, who made it one of the main centers of worship of the city.
George of Antioch, also known as George of Antioch of Syria, was a Byzantine noble admiral of the 12th century. Besides being famous for being the founder of the Church of the Martorana, he was one of the protagonists of the political and military life under the reign of Roger II from 1108 to 1151.
The Martorana Church, built in Siculo – Norman style, stood near the Benedictine monastery founded by Eloisa Martorana in 1194. It was later called the Church of the Martorana in honour of the noblewoman.
On 7 December 1433, with the privilege of Alfonso V of Aragon and Pope Eugene IV, the Church of the Admiral was assigned to the monastery next door. The nuns, using the new church, left the previous one and went to the Latin rite.
Between 1683 and 1687, to adapt the building to the new Latin rite, the central apse of the Church was replaced by a rectangular and the southern façade was demolished to a design by the architect Paolo Amato. In 1740, Nicolò Palma, another important Sicilian architect, designed a new baroque façade. In 1846, the floor of the square was lowered and a staircase was added. Between 1870 and 1873, the architect Giuseppe Patricolo directed the restoration, bringing the church back to its original state, with the exception of the nave and the central apse.
Abandoned in the nineteenth century, the Martorana Church returned to Eastern worship in 1937 thanks to the Albanian community and the Archdiocese of Palermo.
The church was further restored and reopened again for worship in 2013. It is part of the parish of San Nicolò dei Greci, a reference point for about 15,000 faithful arbëreshë of Byzantine rite living in the city and in the province of Palermo.
The Church of Martorana does not have its own parish territory, but serves the Albanian community of Palermo. Since 2015 it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the Arab-Norman Route of Palermo, Cefalù and Monreale.
La Kalsa, the multicultural district of Palermo
To admire in all its beauty, the Church of the Martorana you can not help but enter the district of the Kalsa where the religious building stands.
The district of Kalsa is one of the oldest and most spectacular of Palermo, located in the heart of the historic city. Characterized by a vibrant and multicultural atmosphere, the Kalsa has a rich history of influences dating back to the era of the Arab and Norman domination of Sicily.
Its name comes from the Arabic al Khalisa, which means the pure or the elect. The current name is Mandamento Tribunali (although it is commonly called by the old Arabic name). The name derives from the presence inside the former court of the Inquisition, the Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri.
The narrow, winding streets of the Kalsa are lined with ancient noble palaces, historic churches and vibrant markets, creating a labyrinth of architectural beauty and local traditions. Among the most expressive monuments of the district are the Martorana Church, the Church of San Cataldo and the Norman Palace, which tell the thousand-year history of the city through their magnificent architecture.
Kalsa is also known for its colorful outdoor markets, where you can find a wide range of local products, from spices to fresh foods, from ceramics to handcrafted artwork. Visitors can immerse themselves in the daily life of Palermo, savoring the flavors and scents of Sicilian cuisine and interacting with local vendors.
Despite its beauty and timeless charm, the Kalsa has experienced periods of decadence and transformation over the centuries. However, in recent years, the neighborhood has experienced a cultural and social renaissance, with the redevelopment of many historic buildings and the opening of new premises, restaurants and art galleries that have contributed to give life to this fascinating part of the city of Palermo.
Interesting facts about the nuns of the Convent of the Martorana
Legend has it that in 1535, during the visit of Charles V to Palermo, the Benedictine nuns of the convent, eager to show a lush garden even if the orange trees did not yet have ripe fruits, created artificial oranges using almond paste. These false oranges, colored and hung from the branches of the trees, gave the illusion of an imminent harvest, thus giving rise to the “fruits of Martorana”.
After the suppression of the religious guilds in 1866, the monastery was abolished and the confectionery activity of the nuns ceased completely. The specialties of the nuns, including the “fruit of Martorana”, became the heritage of pastry town. The cake became so popular that even the royal court was conquered, renaming it “pasta riali” (royal pasta). Originally consumed during the commemoration of the deceased and for Christmas, today it is available all year round and is considered a work of art in Sicilian pastry.
How to reach the Church of Martorana
The city of Palermo can be reached by air, train, ship and car.
Once in the city, the Martorana Church is located in the historic district of Kalsa in Piazza Bellini n.2.
The Church, as part of the Arab-Norman Route of Palermo, Cefalù and Monreale, has visiting hours and an entrance ticket.
You can visit the Church from Monday to Saturday from 9 am to 1 pm.
Instead, for those who want to attend Mass, these are the times:
- Tuesday to Saturday 9 am
- Sunday at 11 am
In the afternoons the Church opens for possible liturgical celebrations and pastoral and cultural activities of the Parish.
In addition, you can take advantage of local tour guides for a tour inside and outside the Church.
Copertina: Sicilia Info
