The Belpaese is a true melting pot of traditions, often survived since the Middle Ages or even from the Roman era and still fully lives after centuries and centuries. Modernity has not erased the wonders of a local and popular culture that still has much to say. Often these traditions are linked to the most important moments of the Christian calendar, such as Easter.
In Sicily the local folklore is well represented by the “dance of devils” that every year takes place in the town of Prizzi, in the province of Palermo: a suggestive event that every year attracts tourists from all over Sicily and from the rest of our Boot. The arrival of spring and summer make the island the best solution for those who want to spend a few days of relaxing holiday during the Easter period.
What is the dance of devils?
This tradition is linked not only to Easter, but also to spring. What we are witnessing is a real celebration that expands what is contained in the Christian rites of Easter: the day of the resurrection of Jesus Christ becomes by extension the feast of the return of spring and the rebirth of nature.
The dance of devils, in Sicilian known as “the abballu di li Diavuli” takes place in the town of Prizzi, and is part of the strictly local folklore, although in the rest of the island we can find quite similar festivities.
The feast begins in the morning of Easter day, when people disguise themselves as devils and death. The devils are two, and are dressed in red, while death, played by one person, is covered with a yellow that usually tends to ocher. Throughout the day these figures make harmless jokes to the random unfortunate, who can get rid of them only by offering a kind of tribute, which can be both money and sweets.
At the end of the day their task is not over: in the streets of Prizzi the population carries in procession two statues, one depicting Jesus Christ and one representing the Madonna. The two statues, after having covered several streets, must finally meet in the square in the center of the town, but just as they are about to reconnect the devils will do everything not to allow it. At this moment, other participants, who are dressed as angels, are guarding both statues. Everyone stages a kind of struggle between the parties, which is precisely the dance of the devils we are talking about.
The rite ends with the victory of the angels, which has a double meaning: on the one hand good wins over evil, on the other life has the better over death.
Foto : PalermoToday
Other similar traditions
As we have already said in Sicily there are other traditions that have similarities with the dance of devils in Prizzi.
In Adrano, in the province of Catania, every year on Easter day a real drama is represented, which locally takes the name of Diavulazzi di Pasqua. The drama is usually performed twice a day, both around lunchtime and at night. The evening performance is a novelty of recent years, made particularly striking by the wise use of lights.
Among the main protagonists are the devils, led by Lucifer, who want to corrupt humanity and push it to damnation. Again, good triumphs over evil in the end. The drama is handed down from generation to generation, with the aim of keeping alive its original spirit, teaching new actors not only the jokes but also everything about gestures.
Another tradition that has parallels with the dance of devils in Prizzi is the Feast of the Jews in San Fratello, near Messina. For generations, on the occasion of Good Friday, some locals dressed in yellow and red and began to disturb all the celebrations related to the death of Jesus Christ. They even obstruct the Good Friday procession. Their faces are covered by a red mask, which recalls the devils, while the clothes are handed down within the families.
The typical cuisine of Prizzi
If you are spending Easter in Prizzi you can not miss the opportunity to taste the typical dishes of the place. There are many restaurants and activities that offer local products, and that can make your experience in the city something unforgettable.
As for the first we recommend to try the busiate with the sauce, an excellent example of Sicilian cuisine. Among the most appreciated dishes by tourists is the so-called “lardu chinu”, a kind of stuffed chicken, a perfect second both for lunch and dinner.
Obviously if you are putting yourself at the table in Sicily can not miss a good dessert. We suggest you try something different than the usual cannoli, and give an opportunity to cucciddateddi. They are cookies that have both figs and pine nuts inside, a combination not to be underestimated, more heavenly than diabolical.
Autore : Andrea Prosperi
Copertina: PalermoToday
