Capraia, the volcanic island of the Tuscan archipelago

Paolo Melissi

Capraia, in the province of Livorno, is an island of volcanic origin, still particularly wild and uncontaminated, which owes its name to the historic presence of wild goats on its territory, which is just over 50 kilometers from Piombino, and it is also the furthest from the mainland of the Tuscan Archipelago islands. Much of its territory falls within the Tuscan Archipelago National Park, while the sea that surrounds it is part of the protected maritime area.

Capraia, its history

In Capraia you can see the sixteenth-century Fort of San Giorgio, which stands on a hill near the port, once used by the island’s population to defend against attacks and pirate raids. The Church of Santo Stefano has ancient origins, but was rebuilt after a devastating raid by the Saracens. There are four coastal towers: la Torre del Porto – the best preserved of all – built by the Genoese, la Torretta del Bagno, Torre dei Barbici and the Torre dello Zenobito. Inside the island opens the Stagnone della Capraia, a pond where buttercups grow.

Goat, between sweet and salty

The island cuisine, closely linked to the sea, includes the typical “bordatino of fish”, a kind of polenta seasoned with fish slices. Typical are also the “gurguglione”, a vegetable stew, and the “sammula”, a garlic-based soup. Renowned are also the squids, which also animate the Sagra del Totano di Capraia, at the end of summer. Among the desserts stand out the “schiaccia briaca”, made with wine, raisins and pine nuts.

A large part of the coast of the island is accessible only by sea, because of the rocky conformation, and therefore not all the beaches and coves are easily reachable on foot. For this reason, particularly active are the taxi-boat services that lead to bathers in the most beautiful marine places, which are distinguished by the wonderful colors of the crystal clear sea. Particularly attractive are the Cala di San Francesco and the unmissable Cala Rossa.

Capraia, from sport to relaxation

Thanks to its small size, Capraia is easily accessible on foot, and is also an ideal place for trekking enthusiasts, who can enjoy a dense network of trails with different degrees of difficulty.

As for accommodation, however, it should be said that there are not particularly many hotels and apartments for the holidays, and for this reason it is advisable to book well in advance.