Many Italian regions offer more than it seems. This is the case of Calabria where, among the routes outside the usual tours, today we point out an itinerary steeped in history, art and nature. Byzantine Calabria includes Stilo with its Cattolica, Santa Severina, Rossano, Bivongi and the Pathirion.
In these villages the East resurfaces on several levels, allowing you to abandon yourself to suggestions of other times and other places and, above all, to learn more about the history of our country.
Foto : Unsplash
Catholic Stilo
The emblem of Byzantine Calabria is located on the slopes of Mount Consolino, near the village of Stilo. La Cattolica is a site of great historical importance and charm, remained shrouded in mystery until the nineteenth century, when it appeared for the first time in a work of the canon Michelangelo Macrì of Siderno.
It is the opinion of the major art critics that the Cattolica is a work of extraordinary architectural balance. It is a religious building whose construction dates back to the period between the ninth and tenth centuries, before the Norman domination.
The term “Catholic” could derive from the Greek “Katholikon” and therefore indicate the main place of worship of an area. The church was governed by a perpetual vicar, successor of the proto-pope of the Byzantine era, who had the privilege of being buried inside: some human remains have been found, accompanied by a precious ring.
The building has a structure that recalls the model of the Greek cross church inscribed in a square, with five small domes that emerge from the cylindrical towers.
Legend has it that the columns, taken from an ancient Greek temple, were transported by four local girls who sang all the way, never showing any sign of fatigue. The inscriptions on the columns (gemmate crosses and Arabic texts) bear a mystery that leaves open the debate on their origin and meaning.
To visit the Cattolica you must remember to buy tickets online first, as it is not possible to do so on site. The parking is right in front of the building but it is not difficult to reach it on foot, from the village of Stilo, to take advantage of a pleasant 15-minute hike.
Santa Severina
Santa Severina is an ancient medieval village strategically located in the center of the province of Crotone.
The landscape offers a variety of experiences, from the hilly scenery nestled between the Ionian Sea and the majestic mountains of the Sila, to the river panorama, with the river Neto lapping its territory.
Illustrious citations such as that of Gian Teseo Casopero paint a suggestive picture of the city, described as an imposing fortress surrounded by natural defenses and crumbling walls. In fact, when, at dawn, the fog envelops the valley below leaving emerge only the rock spur on which the town rises, it seems to be in the presence of a huge ship crossing a milky sea.
The historic centre of Santa Severina documents the transition from Norman to Byzantine architecture and offers a mixture of Byzantine, Arab and Norman influences.
One of the most complex and evocative military fortresses in Calabria, the Castle of Santa Severina is surrounded by mighty crenellated walls and a moat and offers a breathtaking view from its belvedere, built in 1535.
Undisputed symbol of the village, it houses an important Archaeological Museum, underground labyrinths and stables. Inside you can still admire medieval frescoes and decorated halls, embellished with baroque paintings by Francesco Giordano.
The Cathedral, with its bell tower and medieval frescoes, is a place of great charm, while the church of Sant’Antonio, with its tuff portal and frescoes that narrate the life of Saint Francis of Assisi, is another point of interest.
But the history of the village is also told by traditional foods such as pasta “chjna” and aranciàru, an orange with exemplary organoleptic qualities.
Pathirion
The next jewel of architecture and mysticism that you should not miss during your tour of Byzantine Calabria is the Pathirion, also known as the church of Santa Maria del Pàtire.
The building is part of an ancient Italo-Greek monastery located six hundred meters above sea level, among the forests of the Greek Sila, in a panoramic position overlooking the Sibari Plain and the Ionian Sea.
The place is isolated but reachable through a winding road that starts from the locality of Piragineti, near Rossano, which was built by the Austrian prisoners in 1916-17 following an ancient transhumance of the flocks. The surrounding area has been equipped with picnic tables and dining options.
The facade has an ogival portal dating back to the fifteenth century, while two other beautiful portals are located on the sides of the structure. Inside the church is spacious and harmonious, with three naves divided by cylindrical pillars that support the arches. One of the most significant finds of the church is its mosaic floor, which depicts a medieval bestiary and a series of allegorical animals depicted inside a rota.
Rossano
Rossano is a charming town located on the Ionian side of Calabria. For the treasures of Byzantine origin it still preserves, it is also known as the Ravenna del Sud.
In the period between 540 and 1059 it was the strategic center of the Byzantine Empire, never conquered by the many invaders concerned. Later it housed the Stratego and the most important administrative offices, gaining maximum notoriety.
Along the narrow streets of the old town there are many buildings of Byzantine architecture, such as the Oratory of San Marco and the Panagia. The Cathedral of Our Lady of Achiropita houses the famous Codex Purpureus Rossanensis, an ancient gospel book dating back to the Byzantine period and declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Rossano is also the ideal starting point for exploring the natural beauty of the region, including hiking in the surrounding national parks, such as the Sila National Park and the Pollino National Park. This is a land of striking contrasts for the presence of the rugged mountains of the interior and the soft beaches, of fine sand, on the coast (Lido Sant’Angelo among the most popular resorts in summer).
The warm and authentic welcome of its inhabitants also makes it an ideal place to discover a different Calabria, mystical and generous of every possible emotion.
Bivongs
If Stilo is famous for being the birthplace of the philosopher Tommaso Campanella and the Catholic, the nearby center of Bivongi is known for being an authentic village of longevity. It has been included in the world map of the Blue Zones, the geographical and demographic areas with higher life expectancy.
The town was founded by a group of Basilian monks and for this reason too monastic life and culture have always been an integral part of its identity.
The monks were responsible for the creation of a wine very appreciated in Italy and today covered by the DOC mark, obtained thanks to the ventilated climate of this area, which reduces the risk of fungal vine diseases.
A deeply spiritual atmosphere reigns in the monastery of Saint John Theristis, founded by the Greek Orthodox. Those who wish can stay at one of the monastic cells and enjoy the regenerating silence of this place.
Nearby there is no lack of special nature experiences. At Bagni di Guida (now abandoned but still usable) you can bathe in the thermal pools while, going into the woods of the district, you reach the Marmarico Waterfall where you can swim in the lake in front.
Bivongi offers unique opportunities for relaxation and regeneration, which -chissa’- could also be your elixir of life.
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