In Gardone Riviera, a village overlooking the shores of Lake Garda, stands a unique historical and artistic monument: the Vittoriale degli Italiani. This majestic residence was the home of the eclectic poet, aviator and politician Gabriele D’Annunzio during the last years of his life.
Foto – pixabay.com
The small village between Salò and Toscolano Maderno gives us a piece of Italian history that perfectly embodies the artistic vision of D’Annunzio through elements of architecture and study of proportions.
The Vittoriale of the Italians and D’Annunzio
Also known simply as “Vittoriale”, the Vittoriale degli Italiani is a monumental work conceived and commissioned by the poet after the 1920s.
D’Annunzio fell in love with the place to the point of transforming the villa of Cargnacco (expropriated by the government to the art historian Henrich Thode) into a unique residence.
What does the Vittoriale represent for D’Annunzio? Immersed in a park of over nine hectares, it was conceived by D’Annunzio as a sort of tangible reflection of their passions and aspirations, as well as commemoration of their military successes during the First World War. It was made possible by Giancarlo Maroni, a renowned architect of the time and his friend.
Today visiting the Vittoriale degli Italiani means taking a dip in the past, where every architectural detail, every art object and every fragment of paper preserved echoes the presence of the poet and tells a precious story with a unique charm and away from the darkness of history.
Why is it called the “Vittoriale degli Italiani”?
The name “Vittoriale degli Italiani” is linked to the victory of Italy in the First World War, considering the desire of D’Annunzio to express concretely his own “inimitable life” as a poet who had fought during the World War.
It is precisely the desire to preserve his own “inimitable life” because D’Annunzio gives the Vittoriale to the Italian people.
Foto – pixabay.com
D’Annunzio, the writer and the politician
Gabriele D’Annunzio was a very controversial personality of the twentieth century, known for his literary talent, his extreme patriotism and his egocentrism. His fame as a poet and writer has made him a figure of great influence in the Italian cultural scene, as well as one of the protagonists of the political and military events of the time.
After the First World War, D’Annunzio spoke of “mutilated victory”, that is a victory in which Italy was losing in terms of territorial annexations, among which there was also Fiume. So it was that, formed a militia of volunteers, the poet left to conquer the city, an event that helped forge his legend as a national hero despite the lack of support from the government and the cannonade by the Italian Navy of the palace in which D’annunzio had elected the regency of Rijeka
His strong passion for nationalism, his ability as a politician and his adventurous spirit also led him to welcome fascism with enthusiasm, winning the respect of the Duce.
Mussolini recognized D’Annunzio’s self-centered and self-celebrative character and immediately understood that he would never accept a secondary position. So he tried to appease him by accepting the construction of the Vittoriale to remove him from Rome.
D’Annunzio’s legacy is complex, but its impact on the Italian cultural and political landscape of the twentieth century is indisputable.
Vittoriale, the poet’s majestic residence
The Vittoriale degli Italiani is a world that lives its own life with home, library, streets, squares, gardens, amphitheater and waterways. But everything speaks of Gabriele D’Annunzio in some way.
The main residence (called “Prioria”) is the fulcrum of the complex with its unique architectural style halfway between classic, Liberty, Art Nouveau and its lush gardens.
The interiors of the majestic villa are imbued with objects of historical value, precious furnishings, weapons and memories of war, as well as priceless artistic objects. The poet, lover of eccentricity and art, decorated every corner with maniacal care, infusing his spirit in every room. It’s a full-fledged museum house.
The rooms of the Priory are decorated with paintings and sculptures by famous contemporary artists, as well as other masterpieces from different eras and artistic styles. D’Annunzio’s passion for ancient culture and for the East is evident in the works of art coming from those territories, which he carefully placed to create a dreamlike and evocative atmosphere.
His interest in literature and poetry, combined with his patriotic spirit, led him to build a library of over six thousand volumes that influenced the brilliant mind of the poet-soldier, one of the largest private libraries of his time.
Foto- flickr.com
Among the treasures of the Vittoriale there are the Sala del Mappamondo where precious volumes and globes are kept; the Stanza della Musica which houses two pianos; the bedroom known as the Sala della Leda because of the plaster placed on the fireplace; the Leper’s Room in which he used to meditate on death; the Zambracca Room in which he died.
Also the exterior of the villa retains some amazing attractions, from the bow of the Nave Puglia set in the hill of the park to the two-seater plane S.V.A. used for the flight over Vienna up to the submarine MAS 96 of the episode of the Beffa of Bakar in which he hit the steamboats with Austro-Hungarian flag. They are the emblem of the military exploits of D’Annunzio and tell the charismatic personality and the adventurous life of the poet.
Inside the park there are the Museo D’Annunzio hero with objects related to the military experience of the poet and the Museo d’Annunzio secret with objects and memorabilia belonging to the most private sphere of the poet.
The atmosphere of the Vittoriale degli Italiani between curiosity and beauty
The Vittoriale degli Italiani is not limited to interior spaces. The lush gardens where the beauty of nature is combined with the architectural elegance make the atmosphere amazing.
Among the many artistic gems there are bronze statues, including the famous Victory crowned with thorns of Martinuzzi. These sculptures give a touch of grandeur and meaning to the surrounding context.
The Lake of Dances, with its winding waterways, adds a note of tranquility and serenity to the environment. To this visual and sound harmony is added the refinement and elegance of the fountains, first of all the Fontana del Delfino.
Foto – pixabay.com
However, it is the amphitheatre (Parlaggio) that catches the attention. It is inspired by the ancient theatres of Pompeii and is an ideal place for cultural events and shows. Today, this outdoor arena hosts musical events and concerts, enlivening life and music and bringing culture back “home”.
But the highlight of this residence is the Mausoleum, the funeral monument that houses the remains of D’Annunzio and testifies to the greatness of an exceptional life that continues to fascinate today. In addition to the poet, the Vittoriale degli Italiani welcomes other people buried among illustrious personalities and legionaries from Rijeka very dear to him.
Vittoriale di D’Annunzio: where is it and how to get there
We are in Gardone Riviera, a village on the Brescia shore of Lake Garda reachable by car or by train.
By car it can be reached via the A22 Brennero motorway (exit Rovereto Sud and SS45bis to Gardone Riviera) if you arrive from the north or the A4 motorway (exit Brescia Est, ring road in the direction of Salò, SS45bis to Gardone Riviera) if you come from the south.
The railway stations closest to the Vittoriale are Desenzano and Brescia, but in both cases you need to take a bus that runs the entire Gardesana.
For a visit to the Vittoriale degli Italiani, it is always best to book in advance so as to avoid waiting during busy periods.
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