Catania is an extremely folkloristic city. Focusing on the uniqueness of its aesthetics, characterized by the black of the lava stone originated by the various eruptions of Etna, and the strong and welcoming personality of its inhabitants, it stands out from other Italian places precisely for the way it proposes, making both citizens and visitors feel at home.
An example is given by the various markets organized almost daily in its historic center or, however, between the main streets of the city, in particular the fish market (piscaria, in dialect) and the flea market.
To piscaria of Catania
Calling it simply a fishmonger is perhaps an understatement, because piscaria in Catania is much more. It was born as an old fish market and is located in the heart of the city, so much so that you can access both from Porta Uzeda (south) and from Piazza Duomo (north).
More precisely, it is set up behind the Fontana dell’Amenano, better known as “water or linzolu” (here in the past women came to wash clothes and sheets).
It is so large and varied that it turns out to be a real experiential journey, also because it has a long tradition. Its headquarters has changed several times over time: first Piazza Carlo Alberto, then Corso Martiri della Libertà and then get behind Piazza Duomo, more precisely in Via Cardinale Dusmet with its extraordinary Arches of the Navy, a few steps from the central Via Etnea.
The “journey” inside the Catania fish market begins outdoors and continues indoors, through the tunnel dug under the Palazzo del Seminario dei Chierici. The fishermen’s benches alternate with those of butchers and fruit and vegetables, which expose their products already at 5 am. Immediately after lunch, then, the sellers dismantle the counters and wash the sidewalks, resting only on Sundays.
Anyone who wanders among the stalls of the fish market in Catania is flooded with scents, sounds and colors: just close your eyes to immediately feel the smell of the sea and fresh fish, as well as the screams of sellers who praise their goods.
Once the eyes open, then, you can admire the red of the prawns and the black of the shells of the mussels, the blue of the anchovies, the silver of sea bass and sea bream, the white of octopus and cod fillets, the pink of the swordfish.
The lucky ones can also taste some delicacies on the spot, like a seafood served with a few drops of lemon. In short, the day starts in the best way.
The Catania fish market, moreover, is a place where time seems to have stopped: the sellers display the goods on marble or wooden counters, many still use analog scales or even with counterweight and shelter in the shade of a simple beach umbrella.
And then, just turn to the Arches of the Navy to see the sea and live for a few moments the stories told by Giovanni Verga, in that of Aci Trezza, land of fishermen and dreamers.
Foto : Unsplash
The flea market of Catania
Together with the fish market, Catania also offers a lively flea market: set up a few steps from the Cathedral, always in Via Cardinale Dusmet, every Sunday from 6 am to 2 pm, it really offers everything.
Among the stalls you can admire ceramics, furniture, crafts, books, vintage clothes, shoes, bags, accessories, chandeliers, favors and so on. Some of these are active every day both in the open space in front of the Church of the Carmine, in Piazza Carlo Alberto, on the occasion of the famous Fera ‘o luni, and near San Giuseppe La Rena (airport area).
The flea market also changed location several times: initially it was set up in Piazza Grenoble and Via Ventimiglia, then moved to Corso Martiri and Piazza Dante and finally landed behind Piazza del Duomo.
Just like the fish market, the flea market offers a riot of colors, scents and flavors: the screams of the sellers are mixed with the smell of the sea and, between a stall, you can stop in a bar in the center to enjoy a granita or an arancino.
Visiting the flea market and piscaria of Catania is a genuine and simple way to really discover the city, since both are located in the historic center: between buildings such as Palazzo Biscari, typical restaurants, antique shops, The University and the baroque style that characterizes practically all the facades, walking through the streets of Catania is as picturesque as it is regenerating.
Between a vintage garment and a vinyl of the seventies is, in fact, possible to taste the history, the culture and the tradition of a very particular city, known mainly for its cuisine, but also to be appreciated for its heart, its availability and its ability to welcome anyone without any distinction, making you feel at home, in fact.
Copertina: Unsplash
